Odd Man And The Sea

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SWCP: LYNTON TO SOUTH DEAN CAMPSITE

Day 4 - The HONOUR GUARD OF GOATS

Another cooked breakfast to start the morning off. I don’t really like to eat heavy in the mornings, so next time I’ll probably end up making a breakfast sandwich to go rather than trying to stuff my face. Mizzle was still pervasive when we were having breakfast, so we weren’t in a rush, as according to the forecast it’d be over soon. By the time we’ve packed everything and made sure not to leave anything behind, the sun was out drying out the crazily humid air. We walked through Lynton to the coast path and started the section. The path to Valley of Rocks is very popular walk and thus also in very good condition. It’s tarmac with plenty of benches to stop to see the view. Despite the popularity, we barely saw anyone apart from a handful of people.

When we approached the Valley of Rocks, we were greeted by the tame wild goats.

Last time we visited the Valley of Rocks, it was full of people and full of goats. The goats would hang out in the valley grazing while tourists were photographing them. This time apart from the welcoming committee there were no goats anywhere, and luckily hardly any people either. The valley was very quiet, which was nice.

We walked through the valley and when taking the official path out of valley (and not the road which most people take), we were honoured by the goat guard overseeing if we were worthy of passing through.

Walking through a grazing field we arrived to the road section. The road walk took us pass the Lee Abbey midway through the downhill and then pass the Lee Abbey tearooms at the bottom of the combe. Tearooms also has free, clean toilets available right next to the road. Continuing the road walk uphill, about half way through the path deviates from the road and goes around the coast edge with great views.

The path goes through the forest, around paddocks and a steep climb back up to the road. The road is quiet, but has a few impressive houses alongside it. The path again departs from the road into a wider, easier walking path. After some climbing we find a perfect place for a lunch break. There was a bench with amazing view all the way back to the Valley of Rocks. Couple of groups passed as by when were having a break and they were envious of our shade, yet sunny location. A very friendly Robin wanted some of H’s Babybel, and H was happy to oblige.

The path climbs out of the forrest and turns into a nice hillside walk with amazing views, but also strong winds.

We reach Heddon’s Mouth and take the path inland into Hunter’s Inn for some late lunch. We just made it in time and spent a while sitting out in the beer garden. Unfortunately, the burger was mediocre at best, but cold refreshments were more than welcome. We took the road towards South Dean campsite. Luckily there was a nice path going parallel to the road, so we didn’t have to watch out for the cars. After a long climb we reached the junction to South Dean farm and walked through an old farm and to the campsite which is situated practically on the SWCP. South Dean campsite has a very high rating, and while it’s a seasonal campsite with showers and running water toilets.

The campsite is pretty exposed and we set up our tent next to a hedge to try to minimise the wind. The site covers couple of pretty large paddocks and while it wasn’t very busy, there was a number of cars and camper vans in the more exposed area with direct views to the sea. I felt the wind picking up, so I deployed the extra guys on the Triple Rainbow’s spine pole. While attaching the extra guys on the pole provides more structural rigidity, deploying the extra guys on the side panel would stop the walls caving in and touching the inner, so that’s probably I’ll do the next time around.

The wind picked up overnight and in the early morning hours we had some rain. I realised that I need better ear plugs than just the cheap foam ones, as the wind noise would wake me up every now and then, despite the tent holding up very well.

DAY 3 <- -> DAY 5